How To Build A Custom 12 foot Sheep Manger ( Wing and a Prayer. )

May 25, 2026

A Wing and a Prayer... Was Our Blueprint

Master Sheep Manger Assembly Guide: 12-Foot Custom Sheep Manger & Covered Shelter.

Problem.....

Sheep wool destroyed, dirty and matted from VM due to bad feeding system with slanted "V" shaped metal wire panels.

Being attacked, trampled, and run over when getting hay, walking away with black eyes, busted lips and countless bruises all over my body from determined, overly excitable, sheep.

Wasting more than half my hay has become incredibly expensive, causing tons of extra work and hard labor every spring, cleaning up rotted hay with a pitch fork.

Solution....

Create a new feeding station that will keep me safely separated during feeding times.

Accommodate all the sheep so none get pushed out and kept away resulting in somewhat equal portions.

Keeping the VM out as much as possible so I can have better quality wool.

Minimize $100's of dollars of wasted money, being spent on the wasted hay all over the ground.

As silly as this may sound to some, my friends and I literally had no plans, no blueprint, no written instructions and no definite image in mind for the finished product.

Once again, just like all our other building projects over the years, we chatted, looked at some different ideas, gathered used wood and reused, recycled items found on Face Book marketplace or KSL classifieds and other sources needed for the project. We prayed each morning before starting, and went to work building through inspiration, communication and problem solving, as we did our best to listen to the guidance being sent in divine miraculous ways.

Every little miracle begins to compound and becomes the finished product in the end. The guidance at one point caused us to tear down and start over in a different area after working for a few days. This was something I should have realized earlier but had forgotten, until it rained. The flood zone.

I believe I have learned more about how to listen from my friends than any real skill that has to do with construction through the years. I still couldn't cut a correct angle, let alone measure one, if my life depended on it right now. I am however, slowly but surely learning the difference between guidance & inspirations, VS my own thinking and reasoning, or lack thereof... For this, I am eternally grateful.

A wing and a prayer was our blueprint.

This time, we literally measured a foot over the top of my friend's head and that was our starting measurement. hahahah! We all still giggle about that.

As I shared a few videos and pics throughout the build on my social medias, lots of people began to message wanting to know if they could please get the blueprints or the instructions on how to build this adorable and very useful sheep manger. "Well," I said, " there aren't any."

I did however agree to do my best to type up some simple basic instructions from memory so others could see and perhaps create something similar. I know as a sheep wool person with all the afore mentioned problems, this has been nothing short of a miracle.

The cost for this project? For me, somewhere around the $200 mark. That was for screws, ridge caps, and a few other odds and ends.

All the tin, boards and lumber were salvaged and repurposed.

The instructions have been written up with as accurate of measurements and simplified materials as I could possibly figure. For the 2 X 12 X 12's we used two salvaged 2X6's stacked instead. For the 4X4 posts, we screwed 2 - 2X4's together to create our own version. When building with used, repurposed and or donated items, you figure out quickly how to make do and create what you need. If purchasing all the lumber new, you will be spending more $'s.

I think the only things we purchased brand new, were the screws and the ridge cap. Please feel free to contact me with questions and I'll do my very best to answer them.

All measurements are based on what we did, but can easliy be adjusted to whatever you may need. I challenge everyone who wants to follow along as you build your own amazing structure, to remember the most important part before starting each day..... Don't Forget to Pray.

Section 1: The Base Trough & Hay Manger

We're going for something like this...

1. Build the Base Trough Box (the feeding box itself.)

· Frame Construction: Cut two matching 12-foot lengths of solid 2x12x12 lumber for the long Front Face and Back Face. Cut two 18-inch pieces of 2x12x12 to serve as the end caps. Assemble these into a rigid rectangular box frame using heavy-duty wood screws.

· Floor Installation: Attach a solid, thick wooden floor completely flat across the bottom of the rectangular frame, securing it firmly to the 2x12 walls.

· Leg Attachment: Secure four sturdy 4x4 legs to the inside corners of the frame. Ensure the length of the legs elevate the trough box so that the bottom of box floor sits 12 inches off the ground.

2. Carve the 7 Comfort Scoops

· Layout: For our manger that is 12 feet long, we fit 6 sheep comfortably plus one extra slot for the ones that like to play musical chairs sheep style.. On the outside of the front 2x12x12 wall (the designated flat sheep-eating side), mark out seven evenly spaced half circle shapes in top and curving down approx. 3-4 inches across the full 12-foot length.

· Cutting: Use a saw to carefully cut seven smooth, equal, half circle or U-shaped "Comfort Scoops" into the upper edge of the wood. These scoops are designed to allow the sheep to lower their heads into the trough comfortably without rubbing or putting pressure on their necks. As well as keeping the hay inside the trough.

3. Assemble the Vertical Eating Face & 6 Middle Slats

· Corner Posts: Secure a 3-foot vertical 2x4 post flat and perfectly flush against the outside,south side-left corner of the manger box. Attach a matching 3-foot vertical 2x4 post flat and flush against the outside, side-right corner.

· Top Header Beam: Place a 12-foot long 2x4 Slat Header beam horizontally across the top ends of the two vertical corner posts. Secure it tightly with structural screws so it sits completely flat and flush with the front facing 2x12x12.

· Slat Installation: Cut six vertical 2x4's or 2x6's for slats. Position them vertically and evenly spaced across the front 2x12x12 and screw them completely flat and flush to the outside front face of the framework. Space the six slats evenly between the two corner posts. This is where the sheep will put their faces through and will separate them.

· Alignment: Ensure each of the resulting seven vertical eating spaces aligns perfectly with one of the carved comfort scoops on the 2x12x12 base front wall below.

Section 2: Installing the Internal Hay Slider

(The slanted boards coming out of the feeder)

1. Establish the 12-Inch Open Trough Space

· Measure exactly 12 inches inward from the completed front vertical eating face toward the back of the box. This 12-inch wide open channel runs the full 12-foot length of the floor and serves as the immediate feeding area where the hay sits within reach of the sheep.

2. Position the Slider Panel

At that 12 inch mark, the bottom of the slider will sit and then be angled up, back and out creating a place to slide the hay down from the human side.

· Cut a heavy plywood panel (or several solid boards) to measure exactly 2 feet high and cover the 12 feet length.

· Set the bottom edge of this 12-foot panel directly onto the inside back bottom edge of the manger box, positioned immediately behind the designated 12-inch open feeding space.

3. Angle and Anchor the Slide

· Slant the top of the plywood panel outwards, leaning it back toward the human-feeding side (away from the vertical sheep slats) to create a steep, smooth internal ramp.

· Install solid wood internal backing braces along the back inside wall of the manger box to support the panel at this outward angle.

· Drive structural wood screws securely through the plywood panel and into the backing braces to lock the slide permanently in place. This ensures that loaded hay naturally sheets forward into the 12-inch open trough area, preventing feed from getting trapped or wasted in the back corners, and this also prevents the person from dropping the hay over onto the heads of the sheep.

Section 3: Setting the Main 12-Foot Support Posts to create the top center of the roof.

1. Post Selection and Sizing

· Use two heavy-duty 12-foot long 4x4 posts to serve as the foundational upright pillars for the roof structure.

2. Digging and Sinking the Pillars

· Center your digging locations directly against the outside middle of the 18-inch end caps on the left and right ends of the manger box.

· Dig a hole approximately 3 feet deep at each end.

· Drop the 12-foot 4x4 posts into the holes, leaving roughly 9 feet of post extending vertically upward above ground level.

3. Splicing to Existing Fence Posts for Stability

· We positioned the entire structure so that one of the main 12-foot uprights stands directly adjacent to an existing, sturdy fence post that is securely cemented into the ground.

· Before backfilling the holes, you can choose to add cement, we did not. Check the new 4x4 posts with a level to ensure they are perfectly plumb (straight up and down).

· We drove heavy-duty structural wood screws completely through the new 4x4 posts and directly into the cemented fence post. Once securely anchored to the immovable fence post, we backfilled the hole with dirt and packing it tightly to finalize the posts for the top ridge beam of the roof.

Section 4: Setting the Four Outer Corner Posts

1. Grid Layout and Alignment

· Gather four additional corner posts to define the wide, protective footprint of the overhead shelter.

· On both the North end and the South end of the structure, we marked out two spots that aligned perfectly with the centerline of the main 12-foot center posts.

· Place these outer posts exactly 5 feet outward from the center posts on both sides (one 5 feet to the left, one 5 feet to the right on each end). These will hold the lowest slant and end of the roof over hangs.

2. Sinking the Outer Posts

· Dig the four corner holes to a uniform, stable depth in the ground, ensuring they maintain perfect parallel alignment with the roof ridge posts.

· Stand the four posts upright in the holes. Verify that the center posts remain the tallest point of the structure, while the four outer corner posts are cut to an equal, shorter height to dictate the pitch of the roof.

· Check for plumb, then backfill and tamp the earth firmly around all four corner posts to lock them in place.

Section 5: Installing the Longitudinal Header Beams

1. Material Selection

· Cut five heavy-duty 2x6 (or 2x8) header beams to an exact length of 12 feet to span the full length of the feeder system.

2. Mount the Top Center Ridge Header

· Lift a 2x12x12-foot header beam and place it horizontally from the top of the tallest North center post to the top of the tallest South center post.

· Align it so it sits perfectly flat on top of (or flush against the top edge of) the center pillars to establish the highest peak ridge line of the roof. Secure it firmly using structural wood screws or heavy-duty framing plates.

3. Mount the Side Eave Headers

· Run 1- 2x12x12-foot header beam along the left side of the structure, securely connecting the top of the North-Left corner post to the top of the South-Left corner post.

· Run the remaining 2x12x 12-foot header beam along the right side of the structure, securely connecting the top of the North-Right corner post to the top of the South-Right corner post.

· Fasten all side beams tightly to the tops of the shorter corner posts using heavy duty hardware, creating a fully connected, rigid overhead box frame.

Section 6: Cutting and Installing the Roof Rafters

1. Prepare the Rafter Boards

· Use solid 2x6 lumber cut into 5-foot boards to serve as the rafters. These 5-foot lengths will bridge the distance from the tall center ridge down to the lower outer eave headers on both sides.

2. Cut the Pitch Angle

· Take your first 5-foot rafter board and measure the precise angle needed to make it sit perfectly flush against the side of the top center ridge header while slanting down to the side eave.

· Cut this angle on the top end of the board and verify the fit. Use this completed board as a master template to cut the matching pitch angle on all remaining rafter boards if using new boards and precise measurements. Or you can measure and mark each separately and custom for your build as we did.

3. Set and Space the Rafters

· Start at one end of the structure. Align the top angled end of the first rafter flush against the center ridge header on top and screw it down securely. Pull the bottom end of the board down until it rests firmly on top of the shorter side eave header, then fasten it with heavy-duty screws.

· Install the next parallel rafter, keeping a strict uniform spacing of every 18 to 24 inches on center along the 12-foot length of the headers.

· Repeat this entire process down the opposite side of the roof, matching the placement of the rafters to create a balanced, symmetrical slope.

Section 7: Installing Rafter Braces (Blocking)

1. Measure and Cut Blocking Pieces

· Measure the exact opening , inside gaps between each installed rafter at both the top center ridge line and the bottom eave lines.

· Cut short blocking pieces out of 2x4 lumber to match these precise dimensions.

2. Install Top Ridge Blocking

· Place the short 2x4 blocks horizontally into the spaces between the rafters right where they meet the top center ridge header.

· Drive structural screws straight through the sides of the rafters and securely into the ends of the wood blocks. This ties the rafter peaks together into a singular, unyielding ridge line.

3. Install Bottom Eave Blocking

· Move down to the short side eave headers and repeat the process. Fit the corresponding 2x4 blocking pieces snugly into the gaps between the rafters right where they cross the eave beams.

· Screw them firmly into place to bridge every rafter gap. This complete blocking system locks all rafters perfectly upright and square, completely preventing the wood from twisting, warping, or rolling under pressure.

Section 8: Applying the Roof Purlins (Lath Strips)

1. Secure the 1-Inch Purlin Strips

· Use 1-inch thick wood purlin strips (lath boards) cut to the full 12-foot length of the roof structure.

2. Map out and Mount the Grid

· Lay these 1-inch strips horizontally across the tops of the secured rafters, running them from the North end to the South end of the shelter.

· Secure the first 12-foot strip flat across the rafters at the edge of the roof line using wood screws at every single rafter intersection.

· Measure exactly 30 inches on center from the first strip to position your next parallel board.

· Screw the strips down at this strict 30-inch spacing all the way down the 5-foot slope of the rafters, going 12 feet across. Repeat this layout identically on the opposite side of the roof to create a rigid, grid-mapped mounting deck

Section 9: Fastening the Final Metal Roofing Sheets

1. Align the First Panels

· Use corrugated or ribbed metal roofing panels pre-cut to 5-foot lengths to match the span of rafters from the ridge to the eaves.

· Start at one outer edge of the roof (the North or South end). Lift the first metal panel onto the 1-inch purlin strips, ensuring the side edge sits perfectly square and flush with the outer end rafters.

2. Screw Down and Overlap the Roof

· Fasten the panel using specialized metal roofing screws fitted with rubber weather-sealing washers (NEO washers). Drive the screws directly through the metal sheets and straight into the 1-inch wood purlins below, spacing screws every 12 to 18 inches horizontally along each 30-inch-centered strip.

· Place the second metal panel next to the first, overlapping the seams by at least one full corrugation ridge to prevent wind and water from creeping underneath. Screw down through the overlapped section and continue this pattern across the 12-foot length of the roof.

· Mirror this installation exactly on the opposite side of the roof.

3. Cap the Peak

· Once both sides of the roof are completely sheeted, place a protective metal ridge cap centered over the very top peak. Screw it down securely through both sides into the underlying framework to bridge the center seam and complete a fully weatherproofed, durable livestock manger feeding system with cover for sheep on one side, and covered hay storage area on the other side

I still need to paint or stain this, but the construction and hardest parts are over. Thank you to my amazing friends who have come to the rescue many times over for me. They have helped make all of this possible.

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